Crazy Over Caviar

How a gourmet would love to say he has had enough caviar, but, alas, one bite and you crave more. Today caviar is an outrageously expensive delicacy which one can seldom get enough of.

As Aphrodite was said to have been born of the sea, several types of ocean catch have been labelled aphrodisiacs. Named after Aphrodite, the goddess of beauty, fertility and love, aphrodisiacs contains chemical components that boost the human libido and help elevate the mood for love. One such gem from the sea is caviar. Once a delicacy enjoyed only by the aristocrats, the preserved roe of sturgeon is now accessible to everyone who appreciates this exquisite ingredient. While wild caviar may be getting harder to find, the farmed caviar industry has grown significantly, thus, perhaps making caviar more accessible. The diversity of caviar makes it a very interesting product; there are really so many varieties available on the market.

Beluga is, quite simply, the Rolls Royce of caviar. This top-of-the-line food is popular among those who can afford the splurge. The simple sight of the Beluga egg can bring tears of joy to the anticipating gourmet. The large size of the Beluga egg is its greatest virtue and most difficult quality to preserve, as the tender eggs break easily and must be handled with infinite care in processing, packaging and shipping. The Oscietra sturgeon, on the other hand, is in some ways the most interesting of the sturgeon, as it has the widest variety of eggs in terms of size, color and taste. Some even say that the taste differs so much because the fish dives to the sea-bottom to avoid fisherman. Amongst connoisseurs, Sevruga is highly appreciated for their unique flavour. They are also the least expensive source of caviar, mainly because there are more of them and they produce eggs at an earlier age.

The best way to enjoy caviar is to proceed in small quantities set down on the tongue, letting the grains burst on the palate to deliver their delicate flavours. For those who may consider the first taste of caviar to be too strong, it is recommended to have it with a neutral complement such as a blini, a kind of small Russian pancake made of risen dough. But the true connoisseur always prefers to eat caviar unadorned.

Recently, numerous chefs have innovated by associating caviar to some complex recipes, where the taste of this priceless black pearl, far from being buried under other ingredients, is enhanced by the set of contrasting flavours. Our guide speaks to Chef Frederic Chabbert of Restaurant Petrus and Chef David Goodridge of Gaddi's to share with you their expertise on this exotic ingredient and how they incorporate it in their dishes to provide diners with a revolutionary experience.

 

Chef Frederic Chabbert of Restaurant Petrus at Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong

Caviar has always been a delicacy synonymous with luxury and rarity, as it is extremely difficult to source, most notably wild caviar. It goes especially well with champagne - although each has a unique character -
and both are accorded vintages.

At Restaurant Petrus, I try to incorporate caviar on my menus where possible - served on its own, or added sparingly to enhance a dish, but it is never used in a complex way. When incorporating the roe in dishes, it is important that there should never be more than two main ingredients, as caviar can overpower the overall taste with its distinct acidity and/or sweetness. 

My last creation was a roast scallop paired with a fresh raw oyster and caviar, potatoes and cream. When using caviar, I tend to add a small amount, about a teaspoon, which is just enough for guests to taste the natural saltiness and silky texture. I avoid using it in sauces and I never blend or over heat it as the process can burst the roe, and takes the whole enjoyment and sensation out of slowly popping the caviar in your mouth.

Although caviar does not feature significantly on the lunch or dinner menu at Restaurant Petrus, I get great enjoyment out of dreaming up a dish especially for guests who place special requests with me. My preference is to use Oscietra, because it has a light golden colour and the texture is firm. The roe is also comparatively smaller.

 

Chef David Goodridge of Gaddi's at Peninsula Hong Kong

Caviar is an essential ingredient at Gaddi's. It is a universally, truly luxurious item. But my personal favourite, what brings me the most joy, is wild Iranian Golden Oscietra. Almost nothing else compares to opening the container and really deeply inhaling the brininess of the sea before that first taste.

The best way to serve or use caviar is in its most natural state, to truly appreciate it. At Gaddi's, we serve it in the traditional manner, with minced hardboiled egg whites and yolks, crème fraiche, and more. Having it raw and unadulterated, from off the back of your hand, accompanied by a glass of Champagne - this is truly one of life's pleasures. Caviar used as an ingredient provides dishes an intense, lovely, briny fish flavour. It has a creamy consistency like nothing else. For example, if you add it to or blend it into a sauce, caviar provides an incomparable, unmistakable richness and creaminess.

A classic combination is oysters, caviar and cucumbers. At Gaddi's we serve this wonderful trio in different ways, with different textures, to surprise our guests. For example, I can use the oyster fresh or raw, I can lightly poach it, I can deep fry it for something crispy and hot or I can even puree it together with the caviar for a dressing. Each of these treatments results in different flavours and different presentations, but these dishes will be created with this same trio, as it's a wonderful combination.

At Gaddi's we also do a fantastic salmon confit, where a gorgeous fillet is poached in the finest olive oil at a low temperature over many minutes. I top this dish with caviar because the pairing really brings out the smokiness of the fish in a marvellous way. Caviar should never be served hot, but it can also be lovely if served warm. For instance, I may add a big dollop to finish a sauce. Used intelligently, caviar always adds that extra something special to a dish. But of course be careful not to overuse or add it to a dish merely for the sake of using it, because you would never want to detract from the caviar itself.


 

 

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Meal with a View

I love the scenic views that we in Hong Kong are lucky to have and what better to complement this than with great food. Please recommend me some great spots where both comes together in one neat restaurant package?
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