Long rumoured to be the best Cantonese restaurant in Wan Chai, if not Hong Kong itself, the recent renovations have left the key characteristics of Fook Lam Moon intact. Spread over three floors, the tables remain widely spaced enough to allow tycoons to discuss business deals without fear of being overheard. Table settings on the white linen tablecloths are still as elegant as ever.

The long-time owners were originally caterers in the 1940s to wealthy families who entertained lavishly at home. Today the staff “treat each patron as private clients deserving of the finest Cantonese cuisine served in a luxurious yet relaxing ambiance”. Only the freshest ingredients are used in mostly traditional cuisine. The menu is huge with over 300 separate dishes listed. Famous and expensive items include bird’s nest, fish maw, and shark’s fin, with the most renowned dish being a 60 gram portion of Japanese dry-aged Yoshihama abalone (HK$8,500). Fortunately non-dried sliced South African abalone braised in Fook Lam Moon’s stock with premium oyster sauce is a mere HK$1,000. This dish is truly superb and should not be missed; it is also generous enough in size to be shared between three or four people. Marinated goose webs and wings in spiced soya sauce are succulent while the baked stuffed crab shell with onions and fresh crab meat is exactly that, without any unnecessary fillers. Seasonal vegetable is spinach, coated with delicately cooked crab roe. Old-style steamed finely minced beef with aged mandarin peel resembles a hamburger in texture but is vastly superior to any hamburger joint creation. This perfect combination should not be missed. Nor should Fook Lam Moon’s famous crispy chicken which is very crispy and moist at the same time and served with fresh lemon juice. Most dishes are so perfectly seasoned that it is best to avoid adding vinegar or strong sauces to homemade dishes such as the egg noodles in Fook Lam Moon’s stock and served with shredded “Kim Wah” ham. Finish the meal with sweetened almond soup with egg white or chilled fresh mango pudding.

No wine by the glass and only a small selection of mostly upmarket Bordeaux which are not particularly well-matched with many dishes. Best to pay a reasonable corkage of HK$100 per bottle or try one of the fine selections of Chinese yellow wines.

Excellent, although the waiters can err on the side of the overly attentive.

Very much dependent on the dishes chosen. Sticking with traditional Cantonese cooking the bill could be under $400 per person but if choosing abalone, bird’s nest and sharks fin one or two zeros could be added to the total.