A grand establishment with high ceilings and warm colour tones fitting for an Italian restaurant, Nicholini’s ideal location in Admiralty means great views of the harbour and surrounding skyscrapers heightens the ambiance. Full-length windows wrap around one side of the restaurant where tables are strategically placed so diners can have a better, close-up view. Although not all tables in the dining room are perfectly angled or generously spaced, the majority are, including large booth-style seating at the rear of the restaurant, which still offers good views.

The selection at Nicholini’s, one of the best Italian restaurants in town, is just overwhelming. Along with the main a la carte selection, diners are also presented with a seasonal or specials menu. An eight-bread basket arrives first that includes focaccia, potato and squid ink flavour and more, accompanied with a delightful truffle butter. Homemade burrata mozzarella is filled with bufala, its firm exterior perfectly containing the unbelievably smooth and creamy cheese inside. Accompanied by fresh tomato and ruccola and a touch of pesto, this dish certainly exceeds expectations. Angel hair pasta with Maine lobster, fresh tomatoes and basil was mildly disappointing though, a generously portioned dish but an imbalanced one in terms of flavour, as the luxurious chunks of lobster overpowered the accompanying tomato sauce. The 16-hours cooked veal ossobuco, a house specialty, features the tender fall-off-the-bone meat well supported with creamy saffron risotto and buttery bone marrow. The light soufflé closed the meal wonderfully, served plain with a variety of sauces at the table, including vanilla, chocolate, and raspberry. Coffee lovers will adore the Amedei chocolate mousse with Nespresso granita and Illy cappuccino espuma. Layers of bitter coffee, light cream, and rich chocolate mousse are combined so that each spoonful is a mélange of tastes, the Nespresso granita adding a welcome crunch to this decadent dish.

Italian wines dominate the wine menu, the selection broken down by colour and region. The same is true for the vast array of French wines. There is also a wide selection of New World varietals. Wines by the glass are also reasonable, with around eight choices in both red and white. The selection of dessert wines is also strong.

Service is attentive and friendly. Wait staff are happy to answer questions and make recommendations, seeming knowledgeable about the dishes and ingredients.

Dinner for two will cost from HK$800 per person, excluding wine.